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走近俄北部美景：原生态的洞穴和斑驳的古修道院

来源： 《透视俄罗斯》
Continuing our study of Russia’s north, we’ll head to the Pinezhsky Nature reserve, located 200 km from Arkhangelsk. The Pinezhsky Nature reserve was formed in order to preserve and study typical elements of the northern taiga in their natural state.
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Dmitry Shlyopkin

我们将前往距离阿尔汉格尔斯克市200公里远的皮涅兹自然保护区，并继续我们对俄罗斯北部的研究。皮涅兹自然保护区为保护和研究北部针叶林的原生态特征而设立。
Fairy-tale landscapes, clean air, clear blue water, and mysterious caves. This piece of paradise (covering a total area of 51,890 hectares) was opened in 1974.

Dmitry Shlyopkin

皮涅兹自然保护区有着童话般的风景、清新的空气、清澈碧蓝的流水和神秘的洞穴。这片大自然的乐园（占地5.189万公顷）于1974年开放。
A thorough study of the district that includes the nature reserve began in the mid-1960s. Out of the 476 caves discovered in the Arkhangelsk region, a fourth of them are located within the Pinezhsky Nature Reserve.

Dmitry Shlyopkin

针对该自然保护区及其所在地区的细致研究始于上世纪60年代中期。在阿尔汉格尔斯克州共发现476个洞穴，其中四分之一都位于皮涅兹自然保护区内。
The total distance of the caves reaches 43.5 km. New caves significant for both their length and information they divulge are found every year.

Dmitry Shlyopkin

这些洞穴的总长达43.5公里。这里每年都能新发现一些洞道长度不同寻常、地质信息量较大的洞穴。
The Golubinsky Proval Cave, located on the right bank of the Pinega River is 16.5 km downrigger from the village of Pinega. The cave’s total length is 1622 meters, while it covers an area of 5267 square meters, has a volume of 8255 cubic meters, and an amplitude of 17 meters.

Dmitry Shlyopkin

戈卢宾地凹洞穴（Golubinsky Proval）位于皮涅加河右岸，在皮涅加村下游的约16.5公里处。该洞穴总长为1622米，占地面积为5267平方米，体积约为8255立方米，最宽处可达17米。
Golubinsky Proval is currently the best-known and most-visited cave in the Arkhangelsk region. Despite its proximity to the river and road, the cave was not well-known until the mid-20th centuries even among locals. It wasn’t mentioned in literature either.

Dmitry Shlyopkin

戈卢宾地凹洞穴目前是阿尔汉格尔斯克州最著名、参观人数最多的洞穴。尽管该洞穴靠近河流和道路，但直到20世纪中期都不为人所知，甚至当地人都对它知之甚少。此外，尚未在任何文献中找到有关它的记载。
The caves’ microclimate is unique in that it features a low air temperature, high humidity, and slow-moving air currents.

Dmitry Shlyopkin

洞穴内部的气候非常独特，其特点是气温低、湿度高、空气流动缓慢。
Ice formations and hydro-mechanical deposits are typical for Golubinsky Proval. The ice formed in very cold part of the cave’s entrance. New ice crystals, frost, and ice sinters form year-round.

Dmitry Shlyopkin

冰挂和地下水机械沉淀的堆积物是戈卢宾地凹洞穴的两大典型特点。冰在洞穴入口处非常冷的地方冻结，全年都有新形成的冰晶、霜和冰凌泉华。
Many of the tourists who come to see Golubinsky Proval stay at the Krasnaya Gorka tourist base. It’s located on the ruins of the Krasnogorsky Monastery on top of a tall hill (more than 200 m above Pinega).

Dmitry Shlyopkin

许多前来游览戈卢宾地凹洞穴的游客都会住宿在红山旅游基地。该旅游基地坐落在一座高山顶部（比皮涅加山高出200多米）的红山修道院的遗址上。
This is the oldest of three monasteries in the Pinezhsky district of the Arkhangelsk region. A monk by the name of Makary founded it back in 1605. Before the 17th century, this place was known as Chyornaya Gora, or Black Mountain.

Dmitry Shlyopkin

这是阿尔汉格尔斯克州皮涅兹地区最古老的三大修道院之一，由修道士马卡利于1605年建造。在17世纪以前，这里被称为乔尔纳亚山，也就是黑山。
However, in 1629, a shrine appeared at the monastery: the Georgian icon of the Virgin Mary. It was brought to Russia from Georgian lands conquered by Muslims and given to the monastery by the merchant Ivan Lytkin.

Dmitry Shlyopkin

1629年，修道院得到一个圣物：来自格鲁吉亚的圣母玛利亚圣像。商人伊凡·雷特金（Ivan Lytkin）将其从被穆斯林攻克的格鲁吉亚带到俄罗斯，并献给了修道院。
When the monastery was closed after Communists came to power, the icon was lost. Only fragmented frescoes remain on Krasnogorsky Monastery’s walls.

Dmitry Shlyopkin

在苏联共产党执政后，修道院被关闭，圣像也不知所踪。只有残破的壁画还留在红山修道院的墙壁上。
During Soviet years, a commune was set up inside the monastery. This was later followed by a young Pioneer Camp, and a mental hospital. Afterwards, it was completely abandoned. The cathedral is now abandoned, although its living quarters are used by the tourist base.

Dmitry Shlyopkin

在苏联时代，这座修道院内设立了公社，又先后被用作少年先锋队营地和精神病院。最后，这里便完全被人遗弃。大教堂现在也同样处于废弃状态，尽管其居住区则被用作旅游基地。
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2014年11月24日
标签: 生态、 旅游景点、 旅游、 阿尔汉格尔斯克

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