雅库特的冰雕骨雕及其他财宝

Yakutia (Yakutsk is the capital city of the Sakha Republic, Russia, located about 450 kilometers (280 mi) south of the Arctic Circle) has all the makings of a major tourist destination: hellish cold, warm vodka with frozen hors d’oeuvres, baked horsemeat and plenty of exotic character.

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Ivan Dementievskiy

雅库特（雅库茨克是俄罗斯萨哈共和国首都，位于北极圈以南约450公里（280英里）），有着重要旅游目的地的一切特质：地狱般的严寒，温热的伏特加配冰冻的开胃小菜，烤马肉和大量有着异国情调的人物。

Temperatures the second weekend of December in Yakutia are well below -30° Celsius (-22° F), that is, warm. Ordinarily, this time of year, temperatures drop to around -50 C. One can get used to anything. Besides, thermal underwear, a hat, down parka and gloves will not allow you to perish on the frozen streets. Nevertheless, dressing for any venture outside is like dressing for a walk in open space. The cold burns physically wound your face. If you disdain ski pants, the cold, like a living creature, will cling to your legs; your jeans will freeze to your knees.

Ivan Dementievskiy

雅库特在12月第二个周末的气温要远低于零下30摄氏度（ -22°F），可这已经是暖和的了。通常每年的这个时候，气温都会下降到-50℃左右。人是可以适应任何环境的。此外，保暖内衣，帽子，羽绒大衣和手套是不会让你在冰冷的街上冻死的。不过，为户外出行准备的着装，和在太空行走的着装是一样的。严寒会冻伤你的脸。如果你不屑穿滑雪裤，寒冷就会像活的生物一样抱住你的腿，你的牛仔裤会冻在你的膝盖上。

But even if you do wear the ski pants, they won’t do you much good. Meanwhile, local residents are ready to hang out with each other in the freezing cold for hours. Street festivals are a common occurrence, to say nothing of the fact that Yakuts love to spend their leisure time in the open air — hunting, fishing, engaged in street works. All in all, it’s a matter of habit.

Ivan Dementievskiy

可是即使你穿了滑雪裤，作用也不会太大。而当地居民却能在寒冷的户外相处几个小时。街头艺术节是很普遍的现象，雅库特人确实喜欢在露天打发他们的休闲时光，例如从事狩猎，捕鱼和街头工作。总而言之，这是他们的习惯。

In December the republic of Yakutia — the largest region in Russia (more that 3 million sq. kilometers, the size of five Frances or one India) and one of the least populous (less than one million inhabitants) — holds a festival called Winter Begins in Yakutia. The festival’s two main events are meetings with Ded Moroz (the Russian Santa Claus) and with Chys Khaan (Yakutia’s folktale hero responsible for the cold) and the Stroganina Festival.

Ivan Dementievskiy

在12月时，雅库特共和国作为俄罗斯面积最大（面积300万平方管理，相当于5个法国或印度的国土面积），人口最少的地区（不到一百万居民），会有一个节日，名叫冬天在雅库特开始。节日的两个主要活动分别是：与戴德·莫罗兹（俄罗斯的圣诞老人）和奇斯汗见面（雅库特的民间传说中造成寒冷的英雄）和生鱼片节。

Chys Khaan lives in a cave dug into the permafrost where it is always -7° C, both winter and summer. Inside there are permanent ices sculptures, including copies of the Venus de Milo, Picasso’s “Guernica” and works by the ingenious Buryat artist Dasha Namdakov.

Ivan Dementievskiy

奇斯汗生活在永冻土上挖成的一个山洞里，那里一年四季的温度始终保持在-7 °C。里面有永久保存的冰雕，包括米洛的维纳斯，毕加索的“格尔尼卡”和天才的布里亚特艺术家达沙·纳姆达科夫（ Dasha Namdakov ）作品的冰雕复制品。

There’s also an ice bar. The ice bar is an attraction that was conceived right here, although it does exist in several other places, rumor has it, in London and in Moscow. But here it is right in situ. Vodka and champagne are poured into shot glasses and glass flasks carved out of ice. To go with the iced drinks there is stroganina: raw fish that has been frozen right after being pulled out from under the ice and then cut into paper-thin slices with a sharp knife. These frozen slices are then dipped in salt and pepper. Yakuts eat almost no pork and are not overly fond of chicken, but they love venison, cow and horse meat.

Ivan Dementievskiy

那里还有一个冰酒吧。冰吧的构思就是在这里完成的，不过在别的一些地方也确实存在，据说伦敦和莫斯科都有。不过这里的冰吧才是原汁原味的。伏特加和香槟会被倒入用冰雕成的酒杯和玻璃瓶。配冰镇饮料的有生鱼片：鱼从冰下被钓上来就已经冻住了，然后用锋利的刀切成纸一样薄的薄片。然后在冰冻的生鱼片上洒一些盐和胡椒。雅库特人几乎不吃猪肉，不是太喜欢吃鸡肉，不过他们爱吃鹿肉、牛肉和马肉。

The Stroganina Festival kicks off with a preliminary contest among teams who present towers and other constructions made out of stroganina to a panel of judges. This year the most beautiful composition was of a mammoth — an unofficial symbol of the region.

Ivan Dementievskiy

生鱼片节的开幕活动是一项比赛，参赛队要将生鱼片做成塔或其他建筑，供评委品评。今年最美丽的作品是一只猛犸象 - 它是该地区非官方的象征物。

Yakuts sculptors have been doing bone carving even before the first contact Western world. Today, Yakuts continue to carve pieces entirely by hand. Although, power tools are occasionally used, most of the artists prefer to use an axe and file, so that gives them more control over the bone. The final stage of carving is polishing, which is done with several grades of waterproof sandpaper, and hours and hours of rubbing. The most common material is caribou antlers, ivory from marine mammals, and the bone of various animals.

Ivan Dementievskiy

雅库特雕塑家早在在第一次接触西方世界之前就一直在做骨雕。如今的雅库特仍在完全用手工雕刻骨件。虽然偶尔也会使用电动工具，大多数艺术家还是更喜欢使用斧头和锉刀，让他们在制作骨雕是能有更好的控制力。雕刻的最后一个工序是抛光，要用好几种粗细度的防水砂纸，经过几个小时的打磨才能完成。骨雕最常见的材料是驯鹿角，海象的象牙，以及各种动物的骨骼。