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西伯利亚针叶林地俄罗斯风格的自制雪地摩托车 在伊戈尔·沙伊玛尔达诺夫的插画中告别冬季

绍伊纳：世界上最北端的沙漠

来源： 《透视俄罗斯》
Shoyna, the world's northernmost "desert", is not marked on any map. Only camels are missing from the sand dunes that stretch for tens of kilometers along the coast of the White Sea in the north of Arkhangelsk Oblast. The desert is located 230 miles east of biggest city of Nenets Autonomus Okrug - Naryan-Mar.
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Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

绍伊纳(Shoyna)，世界最北端的“沙漠”，但是在任何地图上都找不到它。只有骆驼会在阿尔汉格尔斯克州北部的白海沿岸绵延数十公里的沙丘中走失。这里位于涅涅茨自治区最大的城市纳里扬马尔以东230英里。
In Shoyna, sand is ubiquitous. It is all around, as far as the eye can see. The dunes, which migrate up and down the White Sea coast by action of the westerly wind, can bury a house up to the roof in a single night.

Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

在绍伊纳地区，砂是无处不在的。放眼望去随处可见。沙丘随着西风的吹拂在白海沿海来回以东，一夜之间就能没到房子的屋顶。
Shoyna is one such village, but here the people's attitude to sand is improbably fatalistic.

Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

绍伊纳就是这样一个村子，但这里的人对沙子的态度却是难以置信的宿命。
They have only one precaution: do not close the door at night. Because come morning, it may not open. Half the village, population 400, is at the epicenter of a slow but inexorable sand wave.

Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

他们对沙子只有一个预防措施： 不要在夜里关门。因为早上起来可能就打不开了。半个村庄的400多口人都位于缓慢而无情地的沙丘活动最严重的地区。
Here, people are accustomed to the fact that sunlight penetrates only the top part of the windows, but newcomers will feel almost buried alive to begin with. The locals used to disinter homes with a bulldozer, but two years ago it broke. A new one was sent a couple of days before our arrival.

Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

这里的人们已经习惯了阳光只能穿透窗口上部，可是新来的人一开始也许会觉得这几乎等于被活埋。当地人过去用一辆推土机从沙子里把家园挖出来，可是两年前挖掘机坏了。新的挖掘机在我们到达的几天前才送到。
No one knows the exact reason why the sand crawls up and down the coastline. The phenomenon has not been researched extensively by scientists. Neither have they studied ways of stopping the dunes.

Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

没有人知道沙丘会在海岸线上下运动的确切原因。科学家对这种现象也没有做过深入研究，更没有研究过阻止沙丘活动的办法。
Back in the 1930s, Shoyna was a large settlement, described as the "second Murmansk." Up to 70 fishing vessels would ply the shoreline.

Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

早在上世纪 30 年代，绍伊纳曾是个大的聚居点，被形容为"第二个摩尔曼斯克"。那是有多达70条 捕鱼船在海岸线上停靠。
Life in Shoyna is not opulent, but nourishing. The gulf abounds with fish: plaice, navaga, white salmon, peled. Money comes from Norwegians across the border, who for many years have bought up the local cloudberries.

Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

绍伊纳的生活并不富裕，但是很滋润。海湾里盛产各种鱼： 如鲽鱼、鳕鱼、白鲑鱼、高白鲑等。来自边界另一边的挪威人多年来一直在大批收购本地的黄莓。
The men earn a living from hunting. A local marksman boasts that the geese here as numerous as the grains of sand in the dunes. There are also bears, but they are rarely hunted: the meat is not tasty. The vicinity is home to a wide variety of wildlife, including some very rare species of birds. No wonder that ornithologists make of point of visiting every year.

Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

男人们靠打猎为生。一个当地的神射手吹嘘说，这里的野鹅就像沙丘里的沙粒一样多。这里还有熊，但他们很少猎杀：熊肉不好吃。绍伊纳附近有着种类繁多的野生动物，包括一些非常珍稀的鸟类。难怪鸟类学家每年都会到访这里。
How to get there? By light aircraft. Passenger "agricultural planes" fly regularly to Shoyna. It is better not to eat anything before the flight if you would prefer not to see it again.

Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

怎么去那里？靠轻型飞机。搭乘客的"农业飞机"会定期飞到绍伊纳。在起飞之前最好不吃任何东西，省得吐自己一身。
Where to stay? Unsurprisingly, there are no hotels in Shoyna, but there is a vacant barracks with four rooms. In any case, the hospitality of the locals means you won't be sleeping outdoors.

Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

住在哪里？绍伊纳是没有酒店的，这毫不奇怪，不过那里空置的兵营还有四个房间。不管怎么说，当地人的好客肯定你不会让你睡在户外。
Where to eat? The locals will demonstrate their hospitality by feeding you insane quantities of fish delicacies and seagull eggs, in return for a slice of humility. If your pride is too strong, the village has a shop, even two.

Alexei Golubtzov / Focus Pictures

在哪里吃？只要表现的比较谦逊，当地人就会表现出他们的热情，喂你吃数量惊人的鱼制佳肴和海鸥蛋。如果你的自尊心太强，村里也有商店，而且是两家。
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2013年3月31日
标签: 社会、 平民生活、 地区、 俄中旅游、 旅游、 北极、 农村

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