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俄罗斯摄影师镜头下的蚂蚁奇幻世界 20世纪80年代的阿尔巴特大街：照片中的文化长廊

俄民族的扇形绣花头饰：从斯拉夫婚礼走向现代舞台

来源： 《透视俄罗斯》
In ancient Rus, women didn't wear hats. Hats were for men. Women had their own headdresses that were even more beautiful and comfortable: kokoshniks. They were made from expensive materials - silk, velvet, or brocade - and were decorated with pearls, lace, stones, and embroidered gold thread.
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古罗斯妇女从不戴帽子：帽子是给男人准备的，女性拥有更为美丽和舒适的头饰，一种称为“可可什尼克”（ кокошник）的扇形绣花头饰。它由贵重材料制成，如丝、绒或者锦缎，再饰以珍珠、花边、宝石以及绣花用的金线。
The word "kokoshnik" comes from the Slavic word kokosh, which meant a chicken and rooster (from the Old Russian kokosh', meaning a hen). This ancient Russian headdress in the form of a crest (fan or round shield) has long been a symbol of Russian fashion.

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“可可什尼克”一词衍生自斯拉夫语“кокош”，意思是“小鸡”或者“公鸡”（在古俄语中，кокош则代表“母鸡”）。这种古老的尖顶（扇形或圆盾形）头饰，长久以来一直是俄罗斯的时尚典范。
In its structure, the kokoshnik is a light fan made from heavy paper, a metallic ribbon or crown sewed together into a hat or hairnet. The base was made from damask and velvet or red calico on a hard surface made from canvas or cardboard, either glued or quilted together. / Postcard, 1900

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可可什尼克的主架是由厚纸板、金丝带或花冠制成的轻巧扇子，然后将其缝在帽子或包发网上。它的底衬通常是帆布或纸板，再以缎子、丝绒或红布为面料，或粘或缝在一起。图为1900年的明信片。
On top, the crest was decorated with ornaments: artificial or fresh flowers, brocade, lace, beads, river pearls (as of the 16th century, they were gathered from Lake Ilmen), gold threads, foil, glass, or precious stones. The neck was often covered in golden threaded embroideries. / Princess Orlova-Davydova's kokoshnik at a costume ball in 1903.

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在该头饰的冠形表面，点缀着各种装饰物：手工制成的花朵或是鲜花、锦缎、花边、珠子、河里采集的珍珠（俄罗斯人自16世纪起就在伊尔门湖采珠）、金线、金箔、玻璃或宝石。头饰的收口处通常以金线刺绣遮盖。图为1903年奥尔洛娃-达维多娃公主戴可可什尼克参加化装舞会。
The kokoshnik had a cloth bottom. It was fixed on the back of the head with the help of ribbons. When putting it on, the kokoshnik was usually lightly pushed onto the forehead while the back was usually covered with canvas with an added piece of crimson velvet and fastened using ribbons.

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可可什尼克的底座是布制的，可用丝带绑在后脑勺处。戴可可什尼克时，通常轻轻将其推上前额，用丝带在脑后扎紧。通常还有帆布或红丝绒遮住打结处。
Silk or woolen shawls were usually worn on top of kokoshniks and densely embroidered with ornaments made of gold or silver handkerchiefs, i.e. the ubrus; a thin, light blanket decorated with lace embroidery, or a veil. The handkerchief was put on diagonally and pinned under the chin. A long veil made from gauze or silk was pinned under the chin or lowered from the kokoshnik's top to the breast, shoulder, or back.

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丝绸或羊毛披肩通常挂在可可什尼克的顶端，缀满金银饰物的绣花头巾（俄语中称作“芜浦鲁斯”убрус）、绣有花边的薄毯、面纱也是同样戴法。头巾通常对角折后，包在头上，并在下巴下方用别针固定。薄沙或丝质的长面纱通常也固定在下巴下方，或从可可什尼克的顶部垂下，搭在胸前、肩膀或背部。
The shape of the kokoshnik varied greatly from region to region, but tended to depend on the particularities of the tradition of putting hair up in a harness or two braids: around the head over the forehead, on the neck, on the temples, etc. / Ivan Argunov Portret of a Peasant Woman.

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可可什尼克的造型在各地差异很大，但都倾向于按照传统头型来佩戴：将头发分成绺或梳成两股，然后或是绕过前额盘在头上、或垂在脖子两旁、或是贴在太阳穴旁等。图为伊万·阿古诺夫所画的《农妇肖像》
Various blades, cuts, neck covers and other details that varied greatly in Russian regions served as additional designs and decorations. However, they were all kept in a hard base, the kokoshnik.

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在俄罗斯依地域不同，可可什尼克的扇面、剪裁、颈部衬饰等细节也变化多样。这些点睛之笔体现了各地别出心裁的设计和修饰。不过，所有装饰物都要镶饰在较硬的衬底上，也就是可可什尼克的主架。
In more recent times, the tradition of wearing a kokoshnik remained as bridal wear until the 1920s. The young bride wore this traditional headdress from her wedding day until her first child was born. Then, she wore the kokoshnik only for ceremonial occasions or holidays.

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在近代，新娘佩戴可可什尼克的传统一直延续到1920年代。新娘从新婚之日起要一直戴着这一传统头饰，直到她的第一个孩子出生。此后，就只在庆典或节日佩戴。
Peter the Great prohibited noblewomen from wearing the kokoshnik by royal decree. But it was returned to women's court fashion by Catherine the Great who christened the fashion "a la russe" in the 18th century understanding and brought it back to masquerade dress.

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彼得大帝曾颁布皇家法令，禁止贵族女性佩戴可可什尼克。不过，在叶卡捷琳娜二世执政期间，可可什尼克又重返宫廷时尚。叶卡捷琳娜二世以18世纪的习惯将该时尚饰品取名为“a la russe”（法语“俄罗斯”），并使其再次风靡化装舞会。
The Napoleonic Wars, which caused a surge in patriotism, inspired a renewed interest in traditional costumes. In 1812-1814, red and blue Russian dresses (sarafans) with an Empire-style waist and filigree buttons in the front became fashionable. / Empress Maria Feodorovna in a diamond tiara kokoshnik, circa 1880.

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抗击拿破仑的战争曾在俄国掀起了爱国热潮，并激发了人们对传统服饰的兴趣。1812-1814年间，红蓝色的俄式无袖宽松长衫（俄语名为萨拉凡）成为当时的流行款式。穿戴时，常配有帝国特色的腰带以及缝在前襟的金银丝纽扣。图为1880年左右，玛利亚·费奥多罗夫娜皇后戴着一顶镶嵌有钻石的可可什尼克。
Court costume balls of the early 20th century and the imagination of Russian designers and emigre couturiers significantly increased the kokoshnik's popularity.

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20世纪初的宫廷化装舞会、俄国或流亡在外的设计师们的想象力显著地推动了可可什尼克的人气。
Now the kokoshnik is a prized possession of world fashion. / CHANEL Paris-Moscou Pre-Fall 2009

East News

可可什尼克现已是世界时尚领域的一份珍贵财产。图为2009年香奈儿·巴黎-莫斯科初秋展。
Kokoshniks in world fashion collections./ CHANEL Paris-Moscou Pre-Fall 2009 Chanel

East News

可可什尼克在世界时装展上亮相。图为2009年香奈儿·巴黎-莫斯科初秋展。
American singer-songwriter Courtney Love wearing the kokoshnik on Afisha Picnic music festival in Moscow,Russia. July 23,2011

ITAR-TASS

2011年7月23日，美国歌手和作曲家寇特妮·洛芙（Courtney Love）头戴可可什尼克在莫斯科海报野餐音乐会上演唱。
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2013年11月6日
标签: 历史、 服装

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