RBTH RBTH RBTH RBTH RBTH RBTH RBTH RBTH Vyoshenskaya (Vyoshki in common parlance) is a village in the north of the Rostov-on-Don region (900 km from Moscow), the administrative center and largest population center in the Solokhovsky district and Vyoshensky rural settlement. The village is located on the left bank of the river Don.
工人有力量：图揭俄高危艰苦的特殊工种 私人收藏的诡异而精彩的旧明信片

俄小型葡萄酒厂生存之道：逃离大品牌阴影

来源： 《透视俄罗斯》
Gennady Oparin is one of those who at one point hauled imported wine into Russia in tanks. But now he’s planted his vineyards in the calcareous clay soil (“Our land is just like in Burgundy”) and produces wine in small batches. All of it is his.
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Mikhail Mordasov

根纳季·奥帕林（Gennady Oparin）是将国外葡萄酒引入俄罗斯的进口商之一，然而现在，他在石灰质粘土土壤中种植葡萄（“我们的土地就像是勃艮第大区”）并进行葡萄酒的小批量生产。这里的一切都属于他。
Oparin calls his wine “garage wine”. He was inspired by Jacques Thienpont who some thirty years ago revamped his garage into a winery and created one of the top 5 wines in the world using only a tub and a cheap, second-hand press. Jean-Luc Thunevin, who created a whole collection of “garage wines”, is also one of Oparin’s idols.

Mikhail Mordasov

奥帕林将自己的酒称为“车库酒”。他的灵感来自雅克·蒂安蓬（Jacques Thienpont），后者曾在30年前将自己的车库改造成酿酒厂，并仅用一个浴缸和一台廉价的二手印刷机创造出产量占世界五分之一的红酒。此外，创造出全套“车库葡萄酒”的让-吕克·图内文（Jean-Luc Thunevin）也是奥帕林的偶像之一。
Oparin has 50 hectares of land: not just vineyards, but a field, a pond, two restaurants, and a hotel: everything for lovers of eco - and agritourism. There are 20 permanent workers on the farm.

Mikhail Mordasov

奥帕林拥有面积50公顷的土地。那里不仅有葡萄园，还有一片田野、一个池塘、两间餐厅以及一间酒店，这一切都是为生态和农业旅游爱好者而建。农场中20名固定工人工作。
The workers make 75 rubles an hour. “It’s a good sum,” one worker, the retiree Faina Yakhina, explains. “We were working for another farmer, and he kept our wages. But we come out here at seven in the morning and every evening we get our pay. I have a small pension, 200 euros, but I’ve got a lot of grandchildren”.

Mikhail Mordasov

工人的时薪为75卢布（约合2.5美元）。“这个工钱不错”，一名工人、退休人员弗伊纳·亚希纳（Faina Yakhina）解释道，“过去我也为其他农场主工作过，但他并没有支付我们工钱。现在我们早上七点多到这里，晚上时都能得到当天的工钱。我有一小笔退休金，大概200欧元，但我有很多孙子。”
Clients also admired the estate’s beauty. Guests from Novorossisk sit next to the pond on a green lawn in the lacy shadows of trees.

Mikhail Mordasov

客户很喜爱庄园的美景。来自新罗西斯克的客人正坐在池塘旁树荫下的绿色草坪上。
Small wineries in Russia really are a matter just for fans. Just last year, Leonid Popovich, the president of the Association of Grape Growers and Winemakers, figured that a farmer needs to have no less than 100 hectares of vineyards to make at least some profit.

Mikhail Mordasov

爱酒的人成为对俄罗斯小酒厂真正的支持。就在去年，葡萄种植者和酿酒师协会主席列昂尼德·波波维奇（Leonid Popovich）表示，即使想稍微获利，农场主也至少需要种植面积为100公顷的葡萄园。
Some farmers that in Russia, as in other countries, a separately law on vineyards and wine should be passed that would make it possible to create the conditions to develop small, domestic companies in the viticulture and winemaking industry similar to French chateaus. Others are certain that the first thing that should be done is making amendments to the law on advertising since winemakers currently don’t have the right to tell buyers about the qualities of their product, even after creating a unique beverage.

Mikhail Mordasov

与其他国家一样，对于俄罗斯葡萄园园主来说，只有通过有关葡萄园和葡萄酒的专门法律才能确保其有可能创造条件发展国内葡萄种植业和酿酒行业中小企业，类似于法国酒庄。此外，还应该及时制定涉及广告的修正案。因为，目前酿酒师在创造一款独特饮品后，甚至没有权利告知消费者其产品品质。
Yanis Karakezidi, a Greek and a hereditary winemaker in the hamlet of Kutok, created his own farm, “Rustic Farmstead”, which produces around 15 thousand bottles of wine each year at a price of 100 euros. It’s interesting to note that no price limits on wines from small wineries exist.

Mikhail Mordasov

亚尼斯·卡拉克齐基（Yanis Karakezidi）来自希腊，是小村庄库托克（Kutok）的世袭酿酒师。他创建了自己的农场“乡间农庄”，每年生产约15000瓶价格为100欧元的葡萄酒。有趣的是，小酒厂所生产的葡萄酒没有价格限制。
Just like any owner full of feeling for his accomplishment, Yanis swears that in and near the region there is nothing similar to his product: “We don’t have any herbicides, any yeast, sugar, or stainless steel tanks. We subject our wine to only a coarse filtration and store it in oak barrels. Remember: it’s the barrel that makes the wine!”

Mikhail Mordasov

就像任何拥有者都对自己取得的成就充满感情一样，亚尼斯笃定地表示，附近地区没有与自己产品类似的红酒。“我们没有用任何除草剂、酵母、糖或者不锈钢罐。我们的酒只经过粗过滤，然后储存在橡木桶中。请记住：这是那种用来装酒的桶！”
Karakezidi long ago became an almost cult figure in expert circles. They write about him with enthusiasm in professional publications: “Behind the small scales, stand a unique individuality and quality!” He has received gold medals at international forums and exhibitions, while wine connoisseurs from different countries flock to his farm.

Mikhail Mordasov

卡拉克齐基早已成为专家圈中几乎被崇拜的任务。他们在专业刊物中满怀热情地写道：“在这小小的规模后面屹立着一种独特的个性与品质！”他曾在国际论坛和展览上获得金牌，而来自不同国家的葡萄酒鉴赏家更是蜂拥至他的农场。
Karakezidi assures us that he works 20 hours a day: “There’s so much energy, health, and money poured into this. I work without weekends and I just can’t get it through my head how people can go abroad for vacation several times a year."

Mikhail Mordasov

卡拉克齐基向我们保证，自己每天工作20个小时。他说：“我投入了大量的精力、健康和金钱在其中。我没有周末，我只是想不通人们怎么能一年几次去国外度假。”
Of course, micro-wineries impatiently await promised amendments to the law. In many countries, such as France, Italy, Spain, Georgia, and Romanian—the best wine-making regions—a license for wine-production isn’t even required! In the United States, a license for small wineries costs from $50 to $250.

Mikhail Mordasov

当然，微型酒厂也在焦急地等待着所承诺的法律条款修订。在许多国家，如法国、意大利、西班牙、格鲁吉亚、罗马尼亚等上号的葡萄酒酿地区，甚至不要求有葡萄酒生产许可证！在美国，小酒厂获得许可证的费用从50-250美元不等。
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2013年10月16日
标签: 生意、 酒、 地区

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