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哈卡斯自然保护区的生态旅游 俄罗斯千年要塞历经风雨

索洛韦茨基群岛：古拉格幽魂不散之地

来源： 《透视俄罗斯》
With its UNESCO-listed monastery and unspoilt forests and lakes, the Solovetsky archipelago is a place of almost ethereal beauty, and arriving by boat today is an uplifting experience...
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Elena Potapova

索洛韦茨基群岛因其修道院和未受破坏的森林和湖泊而被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产，这是一个近乎空灵优美地方，今天乘船抵达是一次令人振奋的体验……
...but during the 1920s and 1930s, this was a journey into a nightmare - and one from which vast numbers never returned.

Elena Potapova

……但是在20世纪20年代及30年代，这趟旅程变成了一场噩梦——庞大的数量中没有一个能再回来。
For centuries, the archipelago's remote location and isolation from the mainland also made it the ideal dumping-ground for criminals and political prisoners. Under Soviet rule, the islands acquired the unwelcome distinction of becoming the site of the very first Soviet corrective labor camp, or Gulag.

Elena Potapova

几个世纪以来，该群岛偏远的地理位置和与大陆的隔绝为罪犯和政治犯造就了理想的填埋场。在苏联统治下，这些岛屿获得了不受欢迎的与众不同之处——成为苏联的第一劳动改造营，也就是古拉格。
Named the Solovetsky Lager Osobogo Naznacheniya (SLON), the Solovetsky Special Designation Camp was established in 1923 by a decree of Vladimir Lenin.

Elena Potapova

被命名为索洛维茨基拉格尔沃索博格纳兹那车妮亚（SLON），索洛韦茨基特别指定营通过弗拉基米尔•列宁的一项法令，成立于1923年。
It was established as a place where criminals and people who opposed the ideology of the new Soviet state were to be rehabilitated and could "redeem" themselves through hard labor.

Elena Potapova

它是为罪犯和反对新的苏维埃国家思想的人们而建造，在这里他们要改过自新，并且通过辛勤劳动来“救赎”自己。
Prisoners would be shipped north via a series of transit camps, and, on arrival in the Solovki, they would be put to work building roads and barracks, logging, digging peat or working in a brick factory.

Elena Potapova

囚犯将通过一系列的临时改造营运向北方，并抵达索洛维基，他们将投入到建设道路和兵营、伐木、挖泥炭在一个砖厂的工作中。
he heart of the Solovetsky camp was the Solovetsky Monastery itself, overlooking the harbor. This 16th-century fortress - the center of the archipelago's monastic life for centuries - was closed down after the Bolsheviks seized power and turned it into the administrative center for the newly-formed SLON.

Elena Potapova

索洛韦茨基营的中心是索洛韦茨基修道院，俯瞰海港。这座16世纪的堡垒——群岛修道院生活了几百年的中心——在布尔什维克夺取政权后被查封，并将其变为新成立的SLON的行政中心。
Elsewhere around the archipelago's sole settlement, which is known simply as Solovetsky, the visitor will notice signs of its Gulag past everywhere: Many of the buildings are cottages and barracks built by prisoners; the network of roads and tracks was largely built using prison labor; and many of the settlement's modern-day residents are the descendants of men who were imprisoned here.

Elena Potapova

这座群岛周围其他地方唯一的居住地便是为人所知的索洛韦茨基，游客会发现古拉格过去的迹象随处可见：许多建筑物都是囚犯建造的小屋和营房；道路和轨道网络主要是使用监狱劳工建成；许多定居点的现代居民都是在这里被囚禁的人的后代。
From Solovetsky settlement, a dirt track leads through the forest for 7.5 miles to Sekirnaya Gora (Hatchet Hill) - the highest point in the archipelago at 320 feet above sea level.

Elena Potapova

从索洛韦茨基居住地有一条脏污的轨道穿过森林通向7.5英里外的谢继尔山（短斧山）——这是该群岛的最高点，海拔320英尺。
However, this tranquil spot was the scene of some of the most savage punishments to take place under the jurisdiction of SLON - brutality on a scale that was so excessive it shocked even the Soviet authorities.The Ascension skete was transformed into an isolation unit for prisoners, to which they could be sent for periods of up to a year for a variety of offenses, including breaking camp rules, counter-revolutionary activity, sabotage, refusing to work, conspiring to escape and associating with women.

Elena Potapova

然而，这个宁静的地方曾经在SLON的管辖下发生了一些最残忍的惩罚——其残酷的规模是如此令人震惊，甚至震动了苏维埃当局。升天修道院被改造成囚犯隔离室，其期限最长可至一年。而各种罪行包括违反营地规则、反革命活动、破坏、拒绝工作、密谋逃跑以及与妇女私通。
Behind the Ascension skete, a vertiginous 294-step wooden staircase descends the steep hill. Known as the "Torturers' Stair," the steps are the site of one of the cruelest punishments meted out at Sekirka - prisoners would be tied to a log and then pushed down the stairs.

Elena Potapova

升天修道院的背后是下降的陡峭山坡上令人眩晕的294级木楼梯。这里被称为“刑讯楼梯”，是谢继尔卡最残酷的处罚地点之一——囚犯被捆绑在一截原木上面，然后被推下楼梯。
On Bolshaya Muksalma Island are the remains of Sergeyev skete, where women prisoners were confined. Today, all that remains is an eerily derelict wooden building and an area of rubble where the church once stood. Bolshoi Zayatsky Island and Anzer Island are accessible only as part of guided tours.

Elena Potapova

在大马克萨尔玛岛上还存留着谢尔盖耶夫修道院的遗骸，这里关押着女囚犯。今天，所有剩下的就是一个诡异的废弃木结构建筑，以及曾经屹立着一座教堂的一片废墟。大扎亚茨基岛和安治泰岛仅作为由导游带领游览的一部分地区开放。
The Solovetsky camp was closed in 1939, as its proximity to Finland and the unstable political climate in Europe meant its location was no longer suitable.

Elena Potapova

索洛韦茨基改造营在1939年被关闭，其靠近芬兰和欧洲的政治氛围不稳定意味着它的位置不再适合。
Over 80,000 Soviet citizens passed through SLON from 1923-1939, and it is estimated that around half of those died in the camps.

Elena Potapova

超过8万的苏联公民于1923-1939 经历过SLON，据估计，其中大约一半死于改造营。
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2013年8月21日
标签: 监狱、 旅游景点、 旅游、 教堂

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