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俄罗斯首席芭蕾舞女演员嘉娜·维什尼奥娃 卡拉巴什，世界上污染最严重的地方之一

俄罗斯帝国儿童时装的衰落

来源： 《透视俄罗斯》
Over a period of 35 years, distinguished fashion historian Alexander Vasiliev has been collecting antique photographs, which he gathered in a unique album "Children's Fashion of the Russian Empire", released in Russian by the Moscow-based publishing house Alpina Non-Fiction (nonfiction.ru). The time frame covers the period from the late 1850s, when the first photographs appeared in Russia as pictures pasted on cardboard, to 1917, when the sun set on old Russia. The photos in this album plunge the viewer not only into the history of children's fashion of the era, but the history of Russia itself.
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Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

在35年的时间里，著名的时装历史学家亚历山大·瓦西里耶夫（ Alexander Vasiliev ）一直在收集老照片，他将这些照片集中成一个独特的专辑名叫“俄罗斯帝国的儿童时装”。他面向俄罗斯将这个专辑发表在了总部位于莫斯科的阿尔宾娜纪实文学（nonfiction.ru）出版社。时间跨度涵盖从19世纪50年代末，此时第一张照片出现在俄罗斯并且这时的照片还黏贴在纸板上；直到1917年，老俄国的日暮之年。这个专辑中的照片之所以使观众深陷其中不仅是因为那个时代儿童时装的历史，更是因为俄罗斯自身的历史。
In the 1860s, children's clothing in Russia generally followed the precepts of fashion as proclaimed in Paris. Boys' and girls' clothing up to the age of five differed only slightly. They all wore petticoats and small pants. Sisters and brothers would dress alike.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

在19世纪60年代，俄罗斯儿童的服装普遍遵循巴黎所宣布的时尚准则。男孩和女孩的衣服直到五岁时只是略有不同。他们都穿着衬裙和小裤子。兄弟姐妹们的打扮也许是相同的。
Throughout the entire decade, children's suits were sewn in the chequered style of Scottish tartan. Also popular were taffeta, organdy, tarlatan, and barège. Preference was given to white. Young girls, in imitation of women's fashion, still wore small crinolines.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

纵观整个10年，儿童服装就是由方格风格的苏格兰格子呢缝制而成的。期间也流行过纱、塔夫绸、塔勒坦布和巴勒吉纱罗等面料。颜色方面偏好为白色。年轻的姑娘模仿着女性的时装，仍然穿着裙衬。
The 1870s began with a fashion reversal. At that time the tone was still set by Paris, where in 1869 Charles Worth's bustle — a framework of complex drapery at the rear — had completely transformed the female silhouette. The long-standing vogue for wide dresses on crinolines had finally come to an end.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

19世纪70年代开始了一场时尚的逆转，当时时尚的基调仍然由巴黎确定。在1896年查尔斯·沃尔斯的裙撑——位于身后复杂衣纹的框架——已经完全改变了女性的轮廓。带有裙撑的宽大裙子的长期盛行终于走到了尽头。
A narrow silhouette with drapery came into fashion. In the first half of the 1870s, children's clothing mainly copied adult styles. In that regard, girls often wore reworked versions of their elder sisters' and even moms' dresses. Dresses were adorned with pleated trimmings. Drapery or large ribbon bows were attached to the back of skirts.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

狭窄的衣纹轮廓进入了时尚圈。在19世纪70年代上半部分，儿童服装主要仿照成人服装的风格。在这方面，女孩儿们经常穿着的是她们的姐姐甚至是妈妈的衣服经过重新加工后的样式。连衣裙装饰有百褶边，而打褶衣纹或者大蝴蝶结被装饰在裙子的后面。
In the 1880s, children's fashion suddenly broke loose and set the style for trendy adult wear in the 20th century. A great deal of attention was paid to clothing for girls. The most popular was the whole-cut "princess" dress with a lowered waist and accordion-pleated skirt, often trimmed with lace and English embroidery. In this cut, one cannot fail to discern the silhouette of a woman's dress from the 1920s — truncated with a lowered waist.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

在19世纪80年代，儿童时装突然挣脱了束缚，并且其设计的样式成为20世纪流行的成人服饰。需要特别关注的就是女孩子的服装。最流行的是整体剪裁的“公主”裙，这是一种低腰的百褶裙，其通常镶着蕾丝花边和英国刺绣。从20世纪20年代起，这种剪裁方式不会辨别不出女性服装的轮廓——降低已经较低的腰的位置。
The influence of Russian folk costumes was particularly noticeable in the era of Alexander III. Most clothes were cross-stitched in the Russian style, and it was very common to finish children's clothing with colored chain-stitched lace. Russian and Ukrainian children's garments were not uncommon in the 1880s, especially among Slavophils.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

俄罗斯民族服饰的影响力在亚历山大三世的时代表现得尤为突出。大多数衣服以俄罗斯风格交叉缝制，在完成带有用链状缝合法缝成的彩色蕾丝花边的童装时这是很常见的。在19世纪80年代，俄罗斯和乌克兰的童装并不少见，尤其是亲斯拉夫人的。
Over the next decade, the changes in children's clothing became even more noticeable. Boys aged 1-4 wore short garments with a low-set waist, sometimes with a Russian clasp on the side. Sailor suits with large down-turn collars were a particular favorite.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

在接下来的十年里，童装的变化变得更加明显。1-4岁的男孩穿着低腰设计的短款服装，有时其侧面就有一颗俄罗斯搭扣。有大V领的水兵服特别受到喜爱。
Girls aged 1-2 were attired in short dresses knitted from white zephyr wool, already similar in style to children's clothing in the first half of the 20th century. Dresses for 5-year-old girls were made with a yoke, bouffant sleeves, and a low-set sash.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

1-2岁的女孩穿着的由白色轻软精纺毛线制成的短针织裙在风格上已经与20世纪上半叶的儿童服装十分相似了。5岁的女孩儿所穿的连衣裙有裙腰、蓬松的袖子和设计偏低的腰带。
Sailor suits for boys in the 1900s represented sailor's uniform in miniature. Children's sailor jackets were white with a blue collar and white cords at the edge; under the jacket was a striped garment that resembled a sailor's sleeveless vest.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

在20世纪初，男孩们的水兵服就是水手制服的缩影。孩子们的水手夹克是白色的，其蓝色领子的边缘还缝有白线；在水手夹克里面的就是很像水手无袖背心的条纹服装。
A new approach to girls' dresses came from the U.S. — pleated skirts with a small yoke on top. The style afforded the child full freedom of movement, and due to its practicality remained in use for a hundred years. A new element in girls' fashion was the elegant "cabriolet" hat-hood in the style of the 1830s, made of homespun felt and trimmed with black ostrich feathers and taffeta ribbons.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

一种来自美国的关于女孩儿连衣裙的新样式——在百褶裙上面有一个小裙腰。这种风格给予孩子充分的活动自由，并且由于实用性其一百年来仍然在使用。女孩儿服装中一种新的元素是19世纪30年代风格中优雅的“敞篷”兜帽。其镶着黑色鸵鸟羽毛和塔夫绸丝带的款式营造出一种朴素的感觉。
In 1910-1913, the trend for children's fashion to become more adult intensified. Many styles and fabrics in vogue with women became part of the children's wardrobe, too. But World War One saw a lot of belt-tightening, and many were forced to resew and rework children's clothes. Many protests sounded against children's fashion — simplicity was the order of the day. Girls' dresses became knee-length with a low waist, and simple-cut belted trapezoidal dresses and children's sarafans entered into use.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

在1910年到1913年，儿童服装变得更加成人化的趋势在加剧。许多在成年女性中盛行的款式和面料也成为了儿童衣橱的一部分。但是第一次世界大战导致出现了很多紧缩开支的现象，很多人被迫开始再自己缝制和加工儿童服装。许多对于儿童时装的抗议声响起——简洁就是当时的要求。女孩子的连衣裙从低腰变得长度及膝，而配有束带的梯形连衣裙和儿童吊带裙开始使用。
After the Bolshevik coup, the situation regarding the manufacture and sale of children's clothing in Russia changed dramatically, as did life itself. The nationalization of industry, in particular sewing factories, led to an overwhelming shortage of textiles. The most common model at that time was the straight-cut dress shirt with lowered waist.

Alexander Vassiliev's archive vassiliev.com.ru

布尔什维克政变后，在俄罗斯就像生活本身一样，和儿童服装相关的生产及销售情况都发生了巨大的变化。工业国有化，特别是缝制工厂的国有化，导致了纺织品的严重短缺。当时最常见的款式是笔直剪裁的低腰礼服衬衫。
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2013年6月27日
标签: 孩子、 历史、 时尚、 服装

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