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朱卢库尔湖：阿尔泰山畔广袤荒垠的野生动物家园 布里亚特的湖泊风景区：畅享原生态的山水之乐

冰雪王国—尼尔莫古巴村

冰雪、白海、自然、阳光—童话般的尼尔莫古巴村
来源： 《透视俄罗斯》
Snow buries Nilmoguba’s wooden houses in the winter, and sedge and tall weeds grow in the summer.
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Ivan Dementievsky

冬天的雪会把尼尔莫古巴村的木制房屋掩埋，而夏季房子周围则会长满莎草和杂草。
New life is infused into such villages now, when city dwellers, looking for short getaways to nature, rent houses here or even book full tours.

Ivan Dementievsky

如今，新的生活方式也开始影响着尼尔莫古巴村，城市居民会选择来这里短期度假、享受自然。他们会租住房屋，甚至预定全程旅游。
On the shores of the White Sea, three or four kilometers from the Arctic Circle, there lies a village. In the Soviet era, it contained sovkhozy (the state version of kolkhozy, or collective farms), and the locals raised deer, killed game and worked in the fishing industry.

Ivan Dementievsky

位于白海沿岸距离北极圈三四公里的地方有一个村庄。苏联时期，这里曾建有国有农场（国家集体农庄或集体农场），当地人以养鹿、屠宰和捕鱼为生。
However, 10 years later, local businessmen decided to devote their attention to the village, and they built diving centers and a center for studying beluga whales in their natural habitat.

Ivan Dementievsky

然而，10年后，当地商人开始关注这个村子，他们在此建造了潜水中心和白鲸自然栖息地研究中心。
Only the hardiest residents opt to spend the winter here, living as people did in the past; instead, summer sees the arrival of many tourists and summer-home owners, who are returning to their family gardens.

Ivan Dementievsky

只有最顽强的居民才会选择像过去的人一样在这里过冬；不过，到了夏季，许多游客会来到这里，一些村民也会回来照看他们的房屋和花园。
With time the village has started to expand, residents of Murmansk and Moscow are buying plots of land here, and people are coming to these quiet locales for the tranquility, incomparable northern landscape and midnight sun, which lasts for six months.

Ivan Dementievsky

随着时间的推移，尼尔莫古巴村也一点点变大，来自摩尔曼斯克和莫斯科的居民会在这里买地，来此享受宁静的自然、无与伦比的北国风光和长达6个月的午夜阳光。
Sometime in mid-February, the first rays of sunlight break through from behind the horizon, the polar night draws to a close, and life reawakens from its slumber. For the local peasants, it is the season of ice fishing. Closer to spring, the fishing becomes more alluring, and as the ice melts, those who have motorboats head to the White Sea.

Ivan Dementievsky

二月中旬的某一天，地平线上会亮起第一缕曙光，预示着极夜即将结束，沉睡的生命将重新焕发生机。对于当地农民来说，这是冰上捕鱼的季节。春天越来越近了，捕鱼也变得更有诱惑力。在冰雪渐渐融化的时候，人们会驾驶自己的摩托艇驶向白海。
This is how people live in this village and in hundreds of others in the Arctic Circle that may not have been quite as lucky: from winter to winter, and it feels as though nothing changes here.

Ivan Dementievsky

虽然尼尔莫古巴村里的人们可以如此惬意地生活，然而北极圈其他上百个村子里的村民或许没有这么幸运：一个又一个冬季过去，日子似乎没有什么变化。
If you make a second visit a year or two after your first, you will see the same houses, in places having fallen into disrepair, have now been patched up; the same people, who have aged slightly; and the same gray White Sea, which does not change at any time of the year.

Ivan Dementievsky

即使一两年后再去那些村庄，还会看到同样的房子，有的早已年久失修，有的也只是稍做修葺；同样的村民，有的只是年岁的增长；还有那一年四季都不会改变的泛着灰色的白海。
Visitors can fish; Vladimir Putin, Jane Fonda and small groups of Arab sheikhs have come here to do this—or dive, pick mushrooms, sweat in the bathhouse or just relax.

Ivan Dementievsky

游客还可以在这里捕鱼—甚至连总统弗拉基米尔•普京（Vladimir Putin）、好莱坞影星简•方达（Jane Fonda）和小部分阿拉伯酋长们都曾到这里捕过鱼—人们还可以在这里潜水、采摘蘑菇、在浴室汗蒸或者只是来放松身心。
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2014年2月5日
标签: 旅游

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