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航天员眼中的国际空间站生活：马克西姆•苏拉耶夫的太空博客 俄罗斯人生活的众生相

业余旅客探索乌拉尔山脉的极地

来源： 《透视俄罗斯》
Amateur but rather sophisticated traveller Andrei Kipyatkov is going to share his experience about his latest journey. // It so happens that during the summer vacation season, when everyone relocates south to warmer climes, my friends and I prefer to head to the far north of the Ural Mountains. This type of domestic tourism was very popular in the Soviet Union. But when the opportunity arose to travel abroad, interest in such tourism waned. Today, demand for this rather unusual extreme form of travel is again on the rise.
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Andrei Kipyatkov

业余但也相当有经验的旅行者安德烈·基皮亚特科夫(Andrei Kipyatkov)要和我们分享他最近的一次旅行。 //在暑期的度假时节，大家都会去南方气候更温暖的地方，而我和朋友们却喜欢去极北的乌拉尔山脉。这种国内游在前苏联是非常受欢迎的。但是在出国旅游的机会出现之后，人们对此类旅游的兴趣就减弱了。不过现在，对这种不同寻常的极端旅游形式的需求又开始重新上升了。
A lot of good-quality travel gear is now available, and there are companies that specialize in arranging treks and expeditions. There are seven of us — all friends from school. None of us works in tourism professionally, of course, but a couple of times a year we invariably do something to give ourselves a jolt. This summer, our choice fell upon the Ural Mountains and the Yugyd-Va National Park (about 1800 km from Moscow in the north-east direction).

Andrei Kipyatkov

现在可以买到很多高品质的旅行装备，还有公司专门安排徒步旅行和探险。我们有七个人 - 全是学校里的朋友。当然，我们都不是专门从事旅游业的，不过每年我们都会安排出去一两次。今年夏天，我们选定了乌拉尔山脉和尤格德-瓦国家公园 （莫斯科东北方约1800公里处）。
We, of course, never use travel agencies, but instead find all the information we need online in reports and other materials from tourist clubs. After several months of waiting, a northbound train finally took us away from the sweltering heat of Moscow.

Andrei Kipyatkov

我们是从来不找旅行社的，而是通过网上的旅游俱乐部提供的报告和其他材料来找我们需要的信息。在等待了几个月之后，我们终于踏上了一列北行的列车，远离了莫斯科的酷暑。
The contingent traveling in the direction of Vorkuta (1880 km from Moscow) could not be described as overly friendly, but after a day in each other's company we got acquainted with the guys, who weren't so bad after all. The stuffy train, which did not even have the saving grace of open windows, filled up with at least some freshness as the Arctic Circle approached.

Andrei Kipyatkov

去沃尔库塔（距莫斯科1880公里）方向的旅行过程不能说非常友好，不过一天之后大家就相互熟悉了，其实人都很不错。闷热的车厢内甚至没有不能打开车窗，直到接近北极圈时空气里才多少有了些清新感。
The vehicle went back to base, leaving us alone, still jelly-like after the trip but embraced by euphoria — the weather helped, it has to be said. The criteria for selecting the destination are fairly straightforward: in first place is the beauty of the local wildlife and the absence of humanity within a radius of several kilometers — this adds drama and tickles the nerves.

Andrei Kipyatkov

车辆回基地去了，留下我们自己，虽然一路晃过来人还是很晕，可是心情却非常兴奋 - 不过应该说天气还是很帮忙的。选择目的地的标准是相当简单的：第一位的是当地的野生动物，还有方圆几公里范围内没有人烟 - 这也提高了兴奋感，刺激神经。
Another condition is that there must be some obstacles. Of course, it's possible to plunge into the taiga forest and sit and relax there. But we’ve always wanted to immerse ourselves in harsh conditions. After setting up camp, I set off to explore the lake for fish, but to no avail. Although there were many small minnows, salmon clearly did not swim up this far. As I looked, a few people ascended the nearby peak of Old Woman Iz Mountain.

Andrei Kipyatkov

另一个条件是必须有一些阻碍。当然，你也可以沉浸在针叶林里，坐下来放松。可我们总是希望去恶劣的环境。在搭好营地后，我去湖边找鱼，可是什么也没找到。虽然湖里有许多小鲦鱼，可是鲑鱼显然不会游到这么远的地方来。我抬头望去，能看到有几个人登上了附近的伊兹山峰。
The next day, we set off on the first march towards the foot of the Kar-Kar pass with the intention of stopping at Lake Bagel. Although just 10 km, it took 14 hours to complete due to the weight of our rucksacks and the difficult terrain, which was mostly a stone run.

Andrei Kipyatkov

第二天，我们第一次开始朝着卡卡夹道（ Kar-Kar ）的脚下行进，准备在巴格尔湖（ Bagel ）宿营。尽管全程只有10公里，可是由于背包的重量和地势复杂，全程大部分都是山岩，我们花了14个小时才走完。
We always begin discussing ours trips about six months in advance: not because of the complexity involved, but because the process of selecting a destination and stocking up on equipment is almost as enjoyable as the trek itself. Though evidently some nature is unpredictable and you can get stuck in the middle of nowhere if the rain start to pour, or the river is too vulnerable.

Andrei Kipyatkov

我们总是提前半年左右就开始讨论我们的行程：这不是因为旅行的复杂性，而是因为选择目的地和准备装备本身几乎是和远足本身一样有趣。不过有些自然条件显然是难以预料的，如果开始下起大雨，河流开始泛滥，你就可能会被困在荒野上。
But it was worth it. After the hike, we had trouble finding a flat area for the tents, but eventually lay down to sleep only to be woken up by the shouts of another group of tourists (from Perm), informing us that our stuff was being swept across the plateau by the wind.

Andrei Kipyatkov

但这一切都是值得的。在行进之后，我们却找不到平坦的地方搭设帐篷，不过最终还是躺下来睡觉，却被另一批来自彼尔姆的游客吵醒了。他们说，我们的东西被风卷到高原上去了。
Having regathered all our things, some of the group headed for Mount Narodnaya, which at 1850 meters is the highest point of the Urals. The rest of us scouted out the Kar-Kar pass, which still lay before us. We crossed the pass in two trips — with a lighter load it would have taken a total of 11 hours. During the second leg, a storm cloud descended over the pass.

Andrei Kipyatkov

在把我们所有的东西都找回来之后，我们团队里的一些人开始向着 人民峰 （ Narodnaya ）前进，这座1850米高的山峰是乌拉尔山脉的最高点。其余的人则朝着我们前面的卡卡夹道探索前进。我们走了两天才穿过夹道 - 即便负重较轻，要穿过夹道也要11小时。在第二天的时候，风暴云团朝着夹道压了过来。
Even though we guessed our rubber soles made us poor conductors of electricity, it was a tad scary. Less than 10 seconds after the first flash of lightning, everyone was hiding in the crevices under the rocks. After the section on foot, a rafting trip down the Kosyu and Manaraga rivers awaited us.

Andrei Kipyatkov

虽说我们想到橡胶鞋底的导电性很差，可当时还是有点吓人的。第一道闪电落下不到10秒，大家就都被藏到了岩石下的缝隙之中。在完成步行的一段路程之后，前面就是在科西尤河(Kosyu)和马纳拉加河(Manaraga)的漂流之旅了。
Initially, the river was more like a large stream — we were constantly getting off the catamaran to haul it along. But after a couple of days, it turned into a powerful mountain river with pressure zones, rapids, and strong currents, which made the outing more fun.

Andrei Kipyatkov

一开始，这条河更像是一条很大的溪流 - 我们要经常下谁拖着双体船前进。但是一两天后，这条河变成了水流强劲的山河，有落差大的地方，与急流，水速很快，这使得这次户外旅行变得更有趣了。
Due to the weather and lethargy, we were unable to climb Mount Manaraga, another local landmark. In the lower reaches of the river, we began to encounter equipped cabins offering accommodation, and met the staff of Yugyd-Va National Park.

Andrei Kipyatkov

由于天气和疲惫的原因，我们无法登上当地的另一个地标，马纳拉加山。在河的下游，我们开始见到设备齐全提供住宿的小屋，还碰见了尤格德-瓦国家公园的工作人员。
Whereas at the start of the trip the day was polar (although technically we were in the nether-polar Urals, not the actual polar region itself), by the end the nights were getting dark. On the other hand, the sunsets were stunning, while the river flattened out and dispersed, leaving only a swift current.

Andrei Kipyatkov

在我们的行程开始的那天还是极昼（尽管技术上讲我们是在乌拉尔的极地，却不是真正的极地），行程结束时的夜晚夜色已经开始黑下来了。不过那里的日落是非常震撼的，河水渐渐平稳下来，开始分流，只留下一条急流。
После патувањето со возот нè пречека теренско возило, со регистарска табличка „666“, а со оглед на тоа дека беше петок 13-ти, сето ова не го сфативме како добар знак. По осум часа брановидно возење конечно дојдовме до течението на езерото Баланда.

Андреи Кипијатков

火车到站后，我们碰到了一辆很大的乌拉尔越野车，车牌里有“ 666” - 那天恰好是13号星期五，我们觉得这是个好兆头。在路上，我们感觉不是坐在车里，而是在一部振动筛里。经过八个小时的不停颠簸，我们终于到了巴兰达湖的上游。
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2013年4月24日
标签: 旅游景点、 俄中旅游、 旅游、 乌拉尔

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