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俄罗斯全国著名教堂概览 沃尔沃时装周：金秋莫斯科时尚盛典

北极圈内的船舶墓地：衰败之美的捷里别尔卡

来源： 《透视俄罗斯》
The Teriberka town, located on the Barents Sea coast, is supposed to be the last refuge for perishing ships.
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Alberto Caspani

捷里别尔卡镇位于巴伦支海沿岸，是海上失事船只最后的避难所。
A shaky bridge divides the town from the historic village of Lodeyny, where brave fishermen do not surrender to the passing of time and avoid keeping their boats in the bay for too long.

Alberto Caspani

一座摇摇欲坠的危桥将捷里别尔卡与历史悠久的洛德依内村分隔开来。村中勇敢的渔民不愿意轻易屈服，因此还是常常出海打鱼。
Fallen roofs peep out into the sky, letting the Arctic dawns in, while the squeaking sound of rusty frames scares seagulls hunting for their dinner.

Alberto Caspani

屋顶塌落露出了天空，北极的黎明光线透了进来，生锈的钢架晃动着发出吱吱声，吓跑了前来觅食的海鸥。
Teriberka seems to have barely survived a bomb attack, even though the German Naval Forces retreated from here well before the bloodiest years of World War II started.

Alberto Caspani

捷里别尔卡港口看上去就像是刚刚遭受过炸弹袭击，但事实上，德国海军甚至在二战中最血腥的时期开始之前就早已撤出了这里。
A touching cross, erected in memory of the sailors lost at sea, overlooks the bay, the sole beneficiary of the beautiful purple shades of the bay's dawns and sunsets.

Alberto Caspani

这座十字架为纪念在海上失踪的水手而建。它俯瞰带有美丽紫色的海湾，孤独而立，体味着每天的日出日落，潮涨潮汐。
It hurts way too much to see fishing boats that once went against the Arctic ice rot down in the bay, crushed by that very same ice.

Alberto Caspani

看着那些曾在北极冰雪中搏斗过的渔船在海湾中朽烂，之后又被海冰碾碎，着实令人心生感伤。
Shark and salmon fishing has seen better days in Teriberka, with its golden years between the end of World War II and the beginning of the 1960s. Even though sea fishing is the main source of employment for two thirds of the population in this remote town on the Barents Sea, the decision to move territorial jurisdiction to Severomorsk effectively killed the local economy.

Alberto Caspani

捕捞鲨鱼和鲑鱼曾是捷里别尔卡港口居民的主业，从二战结束到上世纪60年代是鼎盛时期。尽管海洋捕鱼业曾为巴伦支海这个偏远小镇提供了三分之二的就业机会，但地方管辖权被移交给北莫尔斯克后对当地经济造成了很大的损失。
While Gazprom, Total and Statoil are discussing how much to invest in a gas field that on its own represents 2% of world reserves, the fading charm of Teriberka is attracting wanderers and hardened fishermen. They come in summer and winter, looking for isolation, for the golden gado gado fish, or to observe the spectacular migration of the tundra’s swans.

Alberto Caspani

当俄罗斯天然气工业股份公司、道达尔公司以及挪威国家石油公司在讨论应该向位于巴伦支海海域的什托克曼油气田投入多少资金的时候，捷里别尔卡却以其衰落之美吸引着旅行家和固执的渔民。他们选择夏季和冬季来到这里，寻找与世隔绝的感觉、金色的海鱼，或者观赏苔原上天鹅迁徙的壮观场面。
However, when you look more closely in the mud, you can distinguish footsteps that do not belong to the locals. Nor do they belong to some cold zombie. They come from the tundra...

Alberto Caspani

然而，如果仔细观察泥地面，就会发现这里有既不属于当地人，也不属于冰冻僵尸的脚印。事实上，这些脚印来自苔原上生活的居民。
Reindeer farming also vanished in the air, due mainly to the facilities offered by the fields around Lovozero, the “capital” of the Sami people. Between fish shops in decay and ghost farms, you can still see some wooden fences around sporadic lichens and Arctic raspberry bushes.

Alberto Caspani

放牧驯鹿已渐渐从当地人的生活中消失。政府为当地人在洛沃泽罗附近提供可耕种的土地，那里成为萨米人的“首都”。如今，在衰败破落的鱼店和早已无人的农场之间，仍然可以看到木栅栏里还残存有零星的苔藓和极地树莓灌木丛。
Here it's possible to experience the life of nomadic reindeer farmers. After the collective farms were closed, many of them went back to their old customs and traditions. Today, they are the most experienced guides to the harsh surroundings of the Kola Peninsula.

Alberto Caspani

在这里，游客可以感受驯鹿牧民的游牧生活。集体农场被关闭后，他们中的很多人又开始按照过去的传统习俗生活。如今，他们成为带领游客前往科拉半岛体验艰苦环境生存状态的最有经验的向导。
There is a believing that Teriberka is about to be invaded by extreme tourists. However, on the streets you can only hear the echo of your own footsteps.

Alberto Caspani

人们相信，很快将有极限旅行者前往捷里别尔卡体验当地特色风光。然而在街道上，你还是只能听到自己脚步的回声。
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2012年11月28日
标签: 平民生活、 地区、 旅游景点、 俄中旅游、 北极、 船舰

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